Thursday, August 23, 2012

Badami Cave Temples

Now Shilpa took over the steering and my co-brother sit back and relaxed, as expected it’s started raining heavily and offering challenge to novice driver. After an hour of drive we reached Badami around 1:00PM.
This place got its name Badami (Almond in Kannada) because the color of the sandstone hills surrounding this place resembles to the color of the almond. Badami is the capital of Early Chalukyas who ruled Karnataka in 6th to 8th century before the Rashtrakutas.
Badami is famous for its four cave temples dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Jain Teerthankar. These caves are not located on the base of the hills but at some altitude above the ground level, so we need to climb around 40 steps to reach the first temple.

 
Cave 1: This temple is dedicated to lord Shiva and it’s believed to the oldest among the four and approximately carved in 578AD.
On the left hand side of the entrance there is statue of the door keeper holding trishula in his hand. Just below his feat we can view the sculpture showing elephant and Bull with the common head.




On the right of the entrance there is a unique Shiva statue in the Tandava dancing pose with 9 pairs of arms featuring 81 mudras of bharatanatyam.

Just adjacent to this there is a small passage where idols of Mahishasuramardini, Kartikeya and single idol of baby with four different positions is carved.
Next section of the temple is having 2 main attractions, on the right hand side there was a carvings of Ardhanareeshwara with sage Bhringi (the skeleton like figurine) and Nandi on left and Parvati on right.


Story of Bringi’s maya
“Sage Bringi considered that Shiva’s Grace the ultimate source for existence. He was an ardent votary of Lord Shiva to the exclusion of any deity in the worship including Parvati! He refused to worship Shakti, a woman. Even during his daily worship, he would circumbulate only the Lord ignoring Mother Shakti, with a flashing spark of arrogance.
The divine couple wanted to enlighten the sage and hence assumed a unique form sharing his body with Parvati. The couple took the form of Ardhanareshwara and stood unified inseparable to every atom. Even then the egoistic sage took the form of a bee (Bringa is a Sanskrit for Bee and the sage came to be called Bringi because he once became a bee) and tried to pierce through the body of the Lord so that he could go around only the Shiva part.
In every human body the static force of Shiva constitutes the bone and the skin and the dynamic force of Shakti triggers the blood and flesh. Goddess Shakti, being the power as the name indicates, pulled out her energy from Bringi's body. Now he was a mere skeleton and was even unable to stand. The Lord pacified Parvati and gave the sage one more leg to stand. The sage soon realized his folly and understood that life becomes dynamic only by the blending of both grace and force which are not contradictory but complementary to each other.”
On the left side of the temple we can find carvings of Harihara accompanied by Lakshmi and Parvati

Ceiling of this section is also having a beautiful carvings of five hooded Nagaraja sitting inside the circular coil of his tail.

Cave 2: This cave temple is dedicated to lord Vishnu and most of the Vishnu avatars has carved in this temple.
Both the sides at the entrance has a carving of kubja ganas (Lilliput) if you observe the below images all the lilliput’s having different hair styles; this shows peoples at that time have the knowledge of different variety of hair styles.


 
Varaha, the boar: The Boar incarnation is the third incarnation of Vishnu. He appeared in order to defeat Hiranyaksha, a demon who had taken the Earth (Prithvi) and carried it to the bottom of what is described as the cosmic ocean in the story. The battle between Varaha and Hiranyaksha is believed to have lasted for a thousand years, which the former finally won. Varaha carried the Earth out of the ocean between his tusks and restored it to its place in the universe. Sculptors shows his excellence by carving all the details of Varaha avatara in this sculpture.

Vishnu’s fifth avatar Vamana is beautifully narrated in this sculpture. At the bottom of the sculpture we can see vamana asking king bali for 3 feets of land, and when king promissed to grant, small vamana keept his two feets one on the entire earth and other one on the entire heaven.

Puzzle on the pillar:
There are 3 images carved on one of the pillar which narrates a puzzle, the first image on the left hand side having 3 heads, 4 hands and 4 legs by closing this image partially we can see 3 humans in different position as showing in the center and right hand side images.
 
Matsya Yantra :
On the ceiling of this cave temple there is wheel decorated with the fishes seems to be it’s a matsya yantra or matsya chakra

Gandharva:
In the same section we can find flying gandharva couples on the ceiling.

Cave 3: This cave temple is also dedicated for lord Vishnu and is the biggest among the four. Inscriptions at the entrance of this temple describes that it was constructed by Mangalesha in 578 AD. This cave is ~70 feet's wide and ~100 feet's depth and the entrance is viewed like a 70mm movie film.

Satyasraya Vishnu:
This is one of the unique sculptures because Lord Vishnu with seshanaga is usually carved in the sleeping position but here the sculpture is in sitting position mostly resembles to King Satyasraya. This indicates that people of that time treats king like a god.
Narasimha:
Cave 4: The last cave temple dedicated to Jain teertankara.
 
Just opposite to these series of cave temples there is a lake called Agasthya Lake and also there is a Bhoothanatha Temple (This is the place where our bollywood star Abhishek Bachchan and Aishwarya Rai got married while shooting Guru movie)


There were some more good temples on the bank of this lake but due to the shortage of time we were not able to visit them. Overall this journey is wonderful and collected lot of glimpses from the history and returned back to hubli around 8:00PM.

References:

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Banashankari > Badami

Date of Journey: 17th June 2012
Total Distance: ~300 KM
Route Followed: Hubli > Annigeri > Gadag > Ron > Banashakari > Badami

One of my best friend Prashantha's marriage was scheduled at Davangere, so I and Shilpa planned to attend it. As the marriage was on Friday we had a weekend to spend so we traveled to Shilpa's sister house at Hubli. My co-brother promised to take us one day outing to any nearby place which we decide. Finally we concluded to have darshana at Banashankari temple and visit Badami caves.

Trip Map:

View Larger Map

Total 4 adults and 3 kids got ready by 8:00AM in the morning and left Hubli in my co-brother's car. This was the first time I am travelling in Hubli region so my co-brother guided me with all details like weather, irrigation, life style of the peoples etc. Winter was just started so climate was in very good condition, it’s almost cloudy and there were little bit raining as well. With lots of gupshup we covered around 110KM without our knowledge and by 11:00AM we reached Banashankari temple.
Temple Entrance
Preserved monument
This temple is constructed in 7th century by Jagadekamalla I king of Kalyani Chalukya who worshiped Banashankari Amma as their Kuladevate. Renovated structure of this temple is constructed in 17century by Parusharam Agale a Maratha chieftain.

Main Temple
Every year Banashankari jatre is conducted in the month of “Pushya” i.e. January which lasts for a month.  Most of the devotees from Karnataka and Maharashtra will visit that time. More than 100 of stalls will be opened at that time and also serves famous north Karnataka sweet like “Karadantu”. Along with this there is also Rath yatra and Teppotsava are also celebrated.

The main sanctum of the temple has the image of goddess Banashankari diefied in it. The black stone sculpture depicts the goddess seated on a lioness trampling a demon under her foot. The goddess has eight arms and holds a trishul (trident), damaru (hand drum), kamaalpatra (skull cup), ghanta (war bell), Vedic scriptures and khadg-kheta (sword and shield).

There are 3 huge Deepa Stambhas (lamp pillars) inside the temple seems like it will be lighted during the festival season during Kartika.

Deepa stambhas inside temple premises
There is a 360 ft (109.7 m) square water tank in the forefront of the temple at the entrance, which is locally called as Haridra Tirtha. The pond is enclosed with stone mantapas (halls) on three sides. A pradakshina or circumambulatory path surrounds the tank.
Pushkarani opposite to temple
Stone mantapa surrounding the pushkarani
Lamp towers (Deepa stambhas) are seen in the foreground of the temple on the west bank of the pond and also at the entrance. The tower on the bank of the tank is also an uncommon guard tower which is "reflects the Vijayanagara blend of Hindu and Islamic style" it is called the Victory Tower.

Watch Tower
Closeup view of watch tower or light stand.
 Few months back there was an article in Kannada Prabha on this temple, which mentioned all the details about this temple. They have also mentioned regarding the local women’s serving typical North Karnataka lunch "Jolada Rotti Oota" in temple premises. There were many such women’s carrying roties in the basket on their head and asking visitors to have it. We all had our breakfast on the way but still wanted   to taste one. When asked for a woman she told one rotti + 2 curries + Curd + Onion will cost just 10Rs.

She took us to pushkarani opposite to temple and served the delicious homemade food. There was a line mentioned in the article that "these women’s humbleness towards visitors to eat healthy and hygienic food is greater than what they earn from selling it" seems to be 100% true, they serve the food like my mother serves me at home. When I told the woman that all their efforts have been published in the news paper she was very happy to hear that. Sky is already getting cloudy and seems like it will rain, so we finished our lunch and headed our journey towards Badami Cave Temples.

Friday, July 27, 2012

Kargadi > Kollur > Marvanthi Beach > Annegudee > St. Mary's Island

Date of Journey: 29th April 2012
Total Distance: ~400 KM
Route Followed: Sagar > Kargadi > Kollur > Marvanthi Beach > Annegudee > St. Mary's Island

My wife had some offering to Annegudee Shri Varsidhi Vinayaka Temple so we planned to visit our father-in-law house at Sagar and have a one day trip to Annegudee and nearby places. Google shows there are some intresting places like Kollur, Marvanthi, Malpe, Udupi... so came up with the plan to cover some places on the way but the main intrest it to visit Annegude.

Trip Map:

View Larger Map

My father-in-law informed that the entire journey may be comes around 400 to 450 KM so if we leave early in the morning then we can return home before 12:00 PM. Finally decided to call our cab driver around 5:30 AM and slept early that day. We all wake up around 5:00AM took the bath (except my 1year old daughter as she was still in her deep sleep) and slowly got ready one by one. My mother-in-law served us with a hot cup (people in malnad use a mug which will be equivalent to our 3 to 4 cups) of coffee. Its a amazing experience to enjoy sip by sip in that chilling environment. We left home by 5:30 AM and headed our journey towards Hosanagara.

Kargadi Ganapati temple:
Beautiful Gopuram at the temple entrance

Just few kilometers before Nagara we saw a huge gopura of a temple and our driver told us this is Kargadi Ganapati temple so we tought to have darshana so stoped our car and entered the temple. Temple priest is almost done his pooja and by seeing us he did aarathi and distributed prasada. Temple is very well decorated with glass chips and premises of garbha gudi was decorated with flowers priest informed us recently there was a procession held. We spent around 15 min there and resumed our journey.



My father-in-law belongs to Nagara family so he was very eager to show his native. Before entering the Nagara town on the road side we saw the old fort which was ruled by Keladhi Veerappa nayaka. As we need to travel a long way we just saw the fort from the roadside (i was not satisfied, may be i will visit next time for this). We stopped near a hotel shabari to have a quick refreshment.

Village style hotel in Nagara

Kollur:
After few hours of journey we saw beautifull hill on our leftside and also many zeeps filled with peoples comming towards us when enquired we came to know that its a Kodachadri hills. Our driver informed us tourists who visits Kollur temple will go there as there is a small temple dedicated to Shankaracharya. As its sunday there were many tourist there, we have visited Kollur few months back so we moved ahead.



Marvanthi Beach:
Maravanthe is a beach near Kundapura, Karnataka, India. One of Karnataka's most beautiful beaches. It is about 55 kilometres (34 mi) from Udupi. NH-17 runs right next to the beach and the Suparnika River flows on the other side of the road, creating a spectacular scenery and considered only one of its kind in India. The river Souparnika, which almost touches Arabian Sea here, makes a U turn and goes eastward to join the Sea only after a journey of more than 10 kilometres (6.2 mi), which is a geological wonder.

View of River and Sea seperated by just few meters.

 View of Arabian Sea

 Unknown Feets

Annegudee:
Annegudde Temple

By the time we reached the temple priests are decorating the gods idol with silver shields so garbhagudi is covered with curtains. After 10 min curtains are opended and we had a good darshana we did some offerings and rituals what we tought of doing.



It already a mid afternoon and our stomach started giving indication that it want something to digest. We stoped our car at Karavali Restaurant to have a lunch, its a good hotel maintained properly. We had a conversation with one family sitting next to our table who just returned from St Mary's island. They told that boats which will carry passengers to island will be availabe till 6:00 PM from Malpe Fishing Harbour. We quickly had our luch and reached harbour in 30min.


NIGER DELTA KING ship on the harbour
By the time we took the tickets boat left the shore :( by no other option we need to wait for the next boat. The guy who issue the tickts informed us that next boat will arive after 45min but it took around 2 hours for the next boat to come. All our enthu is lost in waiting for 2 hours so we are little frustated, harbour was very much crouded by that time and we some how managed to get inside the boat with little quarrel with the people wrongly entering the queue.

Canal at the harbour through which all ships will pass.


Boat travelled for 45min and they stoped when the island is just a half KM away from us. From there we need to change our boats to smaller one which will take us to the shore. We have been told that we need to return back withing one hour.


View of St Mary's Island from the our boat


 Another view of St. Mary's Island

Now its entertainment time but no energy left to do it, still me, shilpa and tanishka spend some time taking bath in  sea water and also we tried speed boat.

View from the island

Return to harbour is also the same problem, peoples are too rush in getting into the boat. As there is no proper maintance its very difficult to get into that small boats. Finally we reached harbour by 6:00PM and returned to the same hotel where we had our lunch for snacks and coffee. After this light refreshment our car ran nostop and reaced home by 11:00PM. Except some dull moments in St Mary's island rest its a good journey and covered all most every places as per our plan.


Conclusion:
  • Never go to St Mary's island in an hurry or with little time frame.
  • Travelling to island is absoultly unmannaged, there were no body to properly monitor the travellers problems.
  • Better not to carry old peoples and kids they may get hurt while changing the boat.
References:

Friday, November 4, 2011

Lepakshi > Rangasthala > Muddenahalli > Nandi

Date of Journey: 01st November 2011
Total Distance: ~301 KM
Route Followed: KR Pura > Hebbal > Lepakshi > Rangasthala > Muddenahalli > Nandi


It was a long time when I visit Mantralayam so planned to visit there during this month as we had a long weekend due to Kannada Rajyotsava holiday. Due to some urgent works which need to be completed on weekends my Mantralayam trip got canceled and I am left with 2 days. Instead of spending them in home I thought of visiting some places which can be covered in one day.


My cousin usually inform me there are some good places around Chikkaballapur, so had a quick chat with him and finalized the trip to Lepakshi, Rangasthala, Muddenahalli and Nandi. Here are the complete details of the places and route travelled.



Trip Map:

View Larger Map

We left home around 7:00 AM with breakfast and lunches packed with us so that we can avoid searching for the hotel and cover as many places as possible. Lepakshi is a small historical town in Anathapur district of Andhra Pradesh and it’s around 120 KM from Hebbala flyover. We need to follow the International Airport route which is nothing but a Bangalore – Hyderabad NH7 highway, road is in very good condition and well maintained.


 

After crossing Bagepalli village there is a toll plaza which will collect Rs. 60 for one side and Rs. 90 for two side journey for cars. After crossing the toll plaza ~4 KM we need to take the left deviation which is called Lepakshi Road, this 15 KMs stretch is really worst and cannot drive more than 40kmph.


History of Lepakshi:
This Virabhadra Temple at Lepakshi was built in the mid-16th century by Viranna and Virupanna, Vijayanagara governors of Penukonda. He executed the plan in the absence of the king and used the treasure when he was away at Vijayanagar. When the construction was almost finished and it was being supervised the king returned and found the treasure empty. The king ordered, as a punishment to this heinous crime, that he should be blinded. The Virupanna being a loyal person carried out the punishment spot with his own hands.

Even today one can see two dark stains upon the wall near the 'Kalyana Mandapa', which are said to be the marks made by his eyes, which he himself dashed against the wall.

Nandi:Visitors to Lepakshi are first greeted by a huge monolithic Nandi which is around 15 feet height and 27 feet length which is said to be biggest Nandi in India. It is facing to Nagalingesvara in Veerabhadra Temple which is around 200m away.

One specialty of this sculpture is Nandi’s head is held at a higher angle when compared to others.
Veerabhadra Temple:
This temple is built in the Vijayanagar style of architecture and is divided into three parts - the 'Mukha Mandapa', 'Artha Mandapa' and 'Garbha Griha'. Entire temple is covered with the finest masterpiece of the art and sculpture, every pillar is different than other telling the story of our ancient epics.





Nagalingesvara:
The Nagalingesvara statue in the temple premises is one of the main attraction, 7 headed serpents is shielding black polished shiva linga this entire structure is carved on the single stone.




Next to this we can see the beautiful red stone Ganesha idol carved inside the mantapa on the same stone .


Kalyana Mandapa:
There is a uncompleted Kalyana Mantapa which is having beautiful carvings on its pillars.



Ranganatha Swamy Temple, Rangasthala
Rangasthala is around 5 KMs from Chikballapur on the Gauribidanur road, there is a village called Thippenahalli where we need to take the right turn and there is also an arch on the roadside. This place is popular among the locals so anybody can show the directions, so it’s better to ask them if missed the way.



Seems like this temple renovation started recently so there is a huge gopuram and a Garuda statue is constructed in the front of the temple. When we entered the temple premised there were some little guys playing cricket in front of the temple. Priest’s son who is playing cricket stopped his play and took us for the Ranganatha Swamy darshana.


Pillars in this temple are having human sized statues.







Muddenahalli:
This is the birth place of our great engineer Sir. M Vishweshwaraiah and also where his soul is resting in peace. Sir M V house is now converted as a museum and having all the collection which is used by him. We can see the India's greatest honour Bharat Ratna medal awarded to him in this museum.



Adjacent to this museum is the place where Sir M V samdhi is situated.





Nandi
This place is just in the base of Nandi Hills and from Muddenahalli its around 2KMs, Bhoganandishwara Temple is the main attraction of this place which is built in Dravidian style of architecture. This is the place where one of the famous Kannada movie Halunda Tavaru is pictured.


At the entrance of the temple there is a huge praakaara which itself having some acres.



There were some stone wheels at the entrance of the temple seems beautiful.





As like other temples this temple is also having beautiful carving on the sides and pillars.












Gopuram of the temple

  

Vasantha Mantapa is the place where temple authority will be providing opportunities for private weddings.

Next to this there is a pushkarani which is worth visiting.
Overall this is a wonderful trip and covered all the places as per our plan.
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