Thursday, August 23, 2012

Badami Cave Temples

Now Shilpa took over the steering and my co-brother sit back and relaxed, as expected it’s started raining heavily and offering challenge to novice driver. After an hour of drive we reached Badami around 1:00PM.
This place got its name Badami (Almond in Kannada) because the color of the sandstone hills surrounding this place resembles to the color of the almond. Badami is the capital of Early Chalukyas who ruled Karnataka in 6th to 8th century before the Rashtrakutas.
Badami is famous for its four cave temples dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Jain Teerthankar. These caves are not located on the base of the hills but at some altitude above the ground level, so we need to climb around 40 steps to reach the first temple.

 
Cave 1: This temple is dedicated to lord Shiva and it’s believed to the oldest among the four and approximately carved in 578AD.
On the left hand side of the entrance there is statue of the door keeper holding trishula in his hand. Just below his feat we can view the sculpture showing elephant and Bull with the common head.




On the right of the entrance there is a unique Shiva statue in the Tandava dancing pose with 9 pairs of arms featuring 81 mudras of bharatanatyam.

Just adjacent to this there is a small passage where idols of Mahishasuramardini, Kartikeya and single idol of baby with four different positions is carved.
Next section of the temple is having 2 main attractions, on the right hand side there was a carvings of Ardhanareeshwara with sage Bhringi (the skeleton like figurine) and Nandi on left and Parvati on right.


Story of Bringi’s maya
“Sage Bringi considered that Shiva’s Grace the ultimate source for existence. He was an ardent votary of Lord Shiva to the exclusion of any deity in the worship including Parvati! He refused to worship Shakti, a woman. Even during his daily worship, he would circumbulate only the Lord ignoring Mother Shakti, with a flashing spark of arrogance.
The divine couple wanted to enlighten the sage and hence assumed a unique form sharing his body with Parvati. The couple took the form of Ardhanareshwara and stood unified inseparable to every atom. Even then the egoistic sage took the form of a bee (Bringa is a Sanskrit for Bee and the sage came to be called Bringi because he once became a bee) and tried to pierce through the body of the Lord so that he could go around only the Shiva part.
In every human body the static force of Shiva constitutes the bone and the skin and the dynamic force of Shakti triggers the blood and flesh. Goddess Shakti, being the power as the name indicates, pulled out her energy from Bringi's body. Now he was a mere skeleton and was even unable to stand. The Lord pacified Parvati and gave the sage one more leg to stand. The sage soon realized his folly and understood that life becomes dynamic only by the blending of both grace and force which are not contradictory but complementary to each other.”
On the left side of the temple we can find carvings of Harihara accompanied by Lakshmi and Parvati

Ceiling of this section is also having a beautiful carvings of five hooded Nagaraja sitting inside the circular coil of his tail.

Cave 2: This cave temple is dedicated to lord Vishnu and most of the Vishnu avatars has carved in this temple.
Both the sides at the entrance has a carving of kubja ganas (Lilliput) if you observe the below images all the lilliput’s having different hair styles; this shows peoples at that time have the knowledge of different variety of hair styles.


 
Varaha, the boar: The Boar incarnation is the third incarnation of Vishnu. He appeared in order to defeat Hiranyaksha, a demon who had taken the Earth (Prithvi) and carried it to the bottom of what is described as the cosmic ocean in the story. The battle between Varaha and Hiranyaksha is believed to have lasted for a thousand years, which the former finally won. Varaha carried the Earth out of the ocean between his tusks and restored it to its place in the universe. Sculptors shows his excellence by carving all the details of Varaha avatara in this sculpture.

Vishnu’s fifth avatar Vamana is beautifully narrated in this sculpture. At the bottom of the sculpture we can see vamana asking king bali for 3 feets of land, and when king promissed to grant, small vamana keept his two feets one on the entire earth and other one on the entire heaven.

Puzzle on the pillar:
There are 3 images carved on one of the pillar which narrates a puzzle, the first image on the left hand side having 3 heads, 4 hands and 4 legs by closing this image partially we can see 3 humans in different position as showing in the center and right hand side images.
 
Matsya Yantra :
On the ceiling of this cave temple there is wheel decorated with the fishes seems to be it’s a matsya yantra or matsya chakra

Gandharva:
In the same section we can find flying gandharva couples on the ceiling.

Cave 3: This cave temple is also dedicated for lord Vishnu and is the biggest among the four. Inscriptions at the entrance of this temple describes that it was constructed by Mangalesha in 578 AD. This cave is ~70 feet's wide and ~100 feet's depth and the entrance is viewed like a 70mm movie film.

Satyasraya Vishnu:
This is one of the unique sculptures because Lord Vishnu with seshanaga is usually carved in the sleeping position but here the sculpture is in sitting position mostly resembles to King Satyasraya. This indicates that people of that time treats king like a god.
Narasimha:
Cave 4: The last cave temple dedicated to Jain teertankara.
 
Just opposite to these series of cave temples there is a lake called Agasthya Lake and also there is a Bhoothanatha Temple (This is the place where our bollywood star Abhishek Bachchan and Aishwarya Rai got married while shooting Guru movie)


There were some more good temples on the bank of this lake but due to the shortage of time we were not able to visit them. Overall this journey is wonderful and collected lot of glimpses from the history and returned back to hubli around 8:00PM.

References:

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Banashankari > Badami

Date of Journey: 17th June 2012
Total Distance: ~300 KM
Route Followed: Hubli > Annigeri > Gadag > Ron > Banashakari > Badami

One of my best friend Prashantha's marriage was scheduled at Davangere, so I and Shilpa planned to attend it. As the marriage was on Friday we had a weekend to spend so we traveled to Shilpa's sister house at Hubli. My co-brother promised to take us one day outing to any nearby place which we decide. Finally we concluded to have darshana at Banashankari temple and visit Badami caves.

Trip Map:

View Larger Map

Total 4 adults and 3 kids got ready by 8:00AM in the morning and left Hubli in my co-brother's car. This was the first time I am travelling in Hubli region so my co-brother guided me with all details like weather, irrigation, life style of the peoples etc. Winter was just started so climate was in very good condition, it’s almost cloudy and there were little bit raining as well. With lots of gupshup we covered around 110KM without our knowledge and by 11:00AM we reached Banashankari temple.
Temple Entrance
Preserved monument
This temple is constructed in 7th century by Jagadekamalla I king of Kalyani Chalukya who worshiped Banashankari Amma as their Kuladevate. Renovated structure of this temple is constructed in 17century by Parusharam Agale a Maratha chieftain.

Main Temple
Every year Banashankari jatre is conducted in the month of “Pushya” i.e. January which lasts for a month.  Most of the devotees from Karnataka and Maharashtra will visit that time. More than 100 of stalls will be opened at that time and also serves famous north Karnataka sweet like “Karadantu”. Along with this there is also Rath yatra and Teppotsava are also celebrated.

The main sanctum of the temple has the image of goddess Banashankari diefied in it. The black stone sculpture depicts the goddess seated on a lioness trampling a demon under her foot. The goddess has eight arms and holds a trishul (trident), damaru (hand drum), kamaalpatra (skull cup), ghanta (war bell), Vedic scriptures and khadg-kheta (sword and shield).

There are 3 huge Deepa Stambhas (lamp pillars) inside the temple seems like it will be lighted during the festival season during Kartika.

Deepa stambhas inside temple premises
There is a 360 ft (109.7 m) square water tank in the forefront of the temple at the entrance, which is locally called as Haridra Tirtha. The pond is enclosed with stone mantapas (halls) on three sides. A pradakshina or circumambulatory path surrounds the tank.
Pushkarani opposite to temple
Stone mantapa surrounding the pushkarani
Lamp towers (Deepa stambhas) are seen in the foreground of the temple on the west bank of the pond and also at the entrance. The tower on the bank of the tank is also an uncommon guard tower which is "reflects the Vijayanagara blend of Hindu and Islamic style" it is called the Victory Tower.

Watch Tower
Closeup view of watch tower or light stand.
 Few months back there was an article in Kannada Prabha on this temple, which mentioned all the details about this temple. They have also mentioned regarding the local women’s serving typical North Karnataka lunch "Jolada Rotti Oota" in temple premises. There were many such women’s carrying roties in the basket on their head and asking visitors to have it. We all had our breakfast on the way but still wanted   to taste one. When asked for a woman she told one rotti + 2 curries + Curd + Onion will cost just 10Rs.

She took us to pushkarani opposite to temple and served the delicious homemade food. There was a line mentioned in the article that "these women’s humbleness towards visitors to eat healthy and hygienic food is greater than what they earn from selling it" seems to be 100% true, they serve the food like my mother serves me at home. When I told the woman that all their efforts have been published in the news paper she was very happy to hear that. Sky is already getting cloudy and seems like it will rain, so we finished our lunch and headed our journey towards Badami Cave Temples.
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